Meant To Be Eaten
Andrew Tam on Singaporean hawker centers—from nuisance to "culinary heritage"
Andrew Tam's research on Singapore Hawker Centers (Gastronomica Spring 2017) reworks what food reveals about multiculturalism, capital-A Authenticity, and socio-economic distinction. We discuss origins of hawkers, their change in perception (general nuisance, to emblematic of culinary heritage), and the cultural capital of knowing which stall to frequent and which to avoid.
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